Sunday, March 8, 2009

Osaka and Kyoto


After being in Japan’s second largest city, Osaka, last year and seeing the sights, we decided this year to be brave and ride the bullet train to Kyoto. The ship docked at the same place the QE2 did last year, so we knew to walk just a couple of blocks to the Osakako Station to get the train into the city. Also just like last year, it was cold and raining. We rode the Chuo Line (Green) from stop C11 to Homachi Station (C16) and changed to the Midosuji Line (Red) to stop M13, Shin-Osaka. At that stop, we changed to the JR Shinkansen Express and we purchased round trip tickets to Kyoto on the fast train for a total of 5500 Yen. There were 5 of us traveling together, and all of us knew nothing. We boarded the train and sat in the first empty seats we saw, very comfortable seats and a lovely car, which was nearly empty. When a young man sat next to Jerry, Jerry leaned over and asked me why the man had sat there when the car was so empty. I said I didn’t know. However, when I looked up and saw the sign that said “Reserved,” I had my suspicions. Anyway, ignorance can be bliss when no one challenges you, and we all enjoyed the comfort of reserved seats for all 11 minutes of this leg of the trip. The trip between Osaka and Kyoto takes 90 minutes by highway.

At Kyoto Station we split from our traveling companions who wanted to share a taxi to travel between sights. We went to the Tourist Information Center on the second floor of the station and got information about independent use of the bus system to get around. We purchased a day pass on the bus for 500 Yen each and headed to stop B2 between the station and the Kyoto Tower.

Our first stop off the bus was Nijo Castle, where we were led by an English-speaking tour guide. The large wooden structure with paintings on the wall was built in the 1600s for the Shogun to use to receive nobles and others seeking his favor. His home was in Tokyo as was his family. We exited at the gardens but decided after a few steps it was not worth seeing the dormant gardens in the winter time under rainy skies. We walked out and immediately boarded another bus to the next stop, the Kinkakuji Castle, where we walked around a bit. We made a stop at the Asian style toilet and then went back to the bus stop and another ride.

This time we went to Gion, where there is shopping and many shrines and temples. First, of course, it was “Feed Me! Time.” There was a sign on the sidewalk with a picture of a bowl of noodles, but the shop was filled with fine jewelry and geodes. There was a man in front of the store who looked like an owner, so we pointed to the noodles, and he signaled that we should follow him. We followed him through the shop to an elevator in the rear and he held up 3 fingers, that we should get off at the third floor. To our surprise, there was a modern restaurant, with typical low Japanese tables and chairs. No one spoke English, but they did have a menu in English so I ordered noodles with cooked tofu. After much bowing by the waitress, we were served tea and a fabulous bowl of noodles in miso broth with tofu and scallions. After letting me struggle a bit with the chopsticks, the waitress brought me a ceramic spoon and a metal fork, which I knew what to do with, and a pottery bowl, which I had no idea how to use. So I must have eaten out of the serving bowl, but it was delicious. We walked to the end of the street, where we found a large shrine, which satisfied our curiosity about shrines. Boarding the bus again, we returned to the station and retraced our steps on the bullet train, then the train to the ship. We walked past the largest ferris wheel in the world, located at the gangway of our ship. Back in plenty of time and pleased with ourselves for getting around and seeing the sights on our own.

3 comments:

Anonymous said...

That sounds like a wonderful day.

Kyoto was by far my favorite part of the trip when I went to Japan with Dad -- now twenty years ago! We were there during the growing season, so it was beautiful. Kinkakuji made quite an impression on me.

One day Dad and I were (attempting to) travel on the bullet train to Nagoya, and in a similarly empty car, an elderly Japanese woman indicated to us that at least one of us was in her seat. We did know that the seats were assigned, so we showed her our tickets, and after looking at them for a moment she knitted her brow and said, "Nagoya?, noooo" quietly, more to herself than to us, and then without saying anything more she walked a couple of rows back and sat in another seat.

In my memory, this all took place before the train left the station, and Dad and I realized from her reaction that we were on the wrong train, so we got off and found the right train. There is a part of my memory, however, that insists that the train was already moving, or that we deliberated whether we were on the wrong train for too long and by then it had started moving, and we needed to change trains at the next station. Anyhow, we eventually made it to Nagoya, where we were going for one of Dad's meetings.

Your post also reminded me of having fun loudly slurping a fabulous bowl of noodles in a noodle house -- I can't remember where.

Thanks for the memories, Ma!

Anonymous said...

Well done!! Sounds like a lot of fun.

Anonymous said...

It wasnot meant to be anonymous. It was from jennie & Margo